Worcester Telegram & Gazette, July 2009
The Bridge Street Bistro, 10 Bridge Street, North Grafton, opened this week to an enthusiastic crowd. Our spies tell us the place was packed Tuesday night.
Chef Tim Welcome of North Grafton and his wife, Mary E. Campbell, a lawyer in North Grafton, are owners of the restaurant, which formerly was Sebastian's Seafood & Grille.
Karen Nephew of North Grafton, formerly of Sebastian's, is manager and tends bar.
Changes at the restaurant include the inside decor. New are the hardwood floors and the black and tan color scheme. "The fish tank in the dining room is gone," according to Nephew, who said some staff from Sebastian's now work for the bistro.
"It was like old home week when we opened," Nephew said. "It was great seeing so many of our customers again."
Welcome for many years worked at the restaurant Lake Ripple in North Grafton and later at The Country Sooper in Upton. He and his wife have two children, Andrew, 10, and Lauren, 13.
The menu at Bridge Street Bistro has been revamped to include more variety, said Nephew. Seafood lovers still can order their favorite catch of the day, and diners will appreciate that Welcome makes soups, etc. from scratch.
"Tim makes the best prime rib around," said Nephew. "It's on the menu everyday." A 12-ounce prime rib is $13.99; 10-ounce, $16.99.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The bar stays open later.
The restaurant accommodates 82. Reservations recommended for parties of six or more. Call (508) 839-7811.
Oh, did I tell you that the bistro has a new pizza oven. You know what that means. I smell specialty pizzas.
Reviews & News
Bistro is Simply Sophisticated
DINING REVIEW
By Bill Clapper, Telegram & Gazette Reviewer
Bridge Street Bistro: 10 Bridge Street, North Grafton
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Phone: (508) 839-7811
Parking: Lot on side and in back of building.
Credit Cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover
Prices: Moderate - entrees $10.99 to $18.99; burgers, sandwiches $7.49 to $13.00.
Pluses: Attentive, friendly, professional waitstaff; comfortable, well-lit dining room; artistic presentation of meal courses.
Minuses: Entry through bar that could be crowded on busy Friday or Saturday night.
Most times scampi doesn’t merit a second glance when I scan a menu. What’s so special about shrimp swimming in a sea of garlic flavored, olive oil infused pasta?
But the scampi on the menu at Bridge Street Bistro gave me pause. It was starred, which indicated it was a house specialty. And what was in Bridge Street’s scampi was very attractive — tomatoes, black olives, artichokes, scallions and mushrooms sautéed in garlic butter, tossed with fettuccini and paired with shrimp or scallops or chicken. I selected the scallops and was rewarded with an excellent, updated rendition of a restaurant favorite.
There was little to be disappointed about Bridge Street Bistro on the Saturday night we made the trek to North Grafton. Our server, Melanie, was upbeat, engaging and professional. The bar filled as the evening advanced, but the Saturday night crowd noise did not spill over into the adjoining dining room. And each course of the meal presented something noteworthy.
Back to the scampi ($16.99), each ingredient stood on its own but did not dominate the dish. The fettuccini was perfectly prepared, and the scallops were meaty and firm. The sautéed veggies added color, texture and showed creativity. One minor suggestion would be to pump up the garlic in the scampi sauce. My taste tends to favor garlic and lots of it. But in Bridge Street’s defense, a more generous portion of garlic would probably have masked the delicate blend of flavors. It was superb, even without the garlic.
The Bistro cacciatore ($14.99) was far more than expected and would qualify as the signature meal. Veal, chicken and hot sausage sautéed with peppers, onions and mushrooms in a tangy marinara sauce proved delightful. The meats were prepared perfectly, the pasta was done to perfection and the sauce was a complement to the cheeses. But then everything at the Bridge Street Bistro was just the right blend of friendly neighborhood restaurant/bar and sophisticated treatment of otherwise simple, standard fare. Crab cakes and stuffed mushrooms can be expected on nearly every American bistro menu. But at Bridge Street, the interpretation of these two staples is stretched to the limit, and both are designated house specialties. An eclectic mix of standards stood out. Grilled filet mignon ($18.99) and roasted prime rib were featured on the beef offerings. Under Bistro Specialties we found “Kicked-Up” Mac n cheese ($10.99), beef stroganoff ($13.99) and porketta ($11.99).
You get the impression that after one or two visits everyone at Bridge Street will know your name. It won’t be long before we test that theory with a return visit.
508-839-7811
Monday - Thursday 11:00am - 9:00pm
Friday & Saturday 11:00am - 10:00pm
Sunday 12:00pm-8:00pm
10 Bridge Street, North Grafton, MA
